The spring-summer 2019 collection presented last July was in keeping with the season: full of floral prints and pink suits that fell between a light gray dominant over a tailor-made tailoring, almost haute couture.

Some of the guidelines for which he advocated then recurred again this Friday for the autumn-winter season 2019/2020, as the search for a more sophisticated "prêt-à-porter" and closer in ways to sewing than to clothing made on a large scale.

"A detailed review of the past to conjugate the future," wrote the "maison" in a note received by the guests, in which Jones recalled that some of the trends on the catwalk are part of the archives of the house.

The panther print, for example, on sports jackets and raincoats, was one of the reasons used by the founder of Dior in his first collection, in 1947.

The suits were worn with double-breasted jacket and satin, so they seemed to be inside out; a nod to the careful details of haute couture, where the lining is as important as what remains in view of the viewer.

Jones resumed harnesses on suits and sweaters, one of the trends to keep in mind, especially after the actor Timothée Chalamet wore a similar design of Louis Vuitton at the last Golden Globes gala.

Cashmere and silk alternated in patterned knitted sweaters and jackets, combined with pincer pants tucked inside military-inspired boots.

At times, the designs seemed to be taken from a science fiction movie, such as "Star Wars" or "Planet of the Apes."

Jones, who in his first creation for Dior collaborated with the artist Brian Donnelly , allied himself this time with the American artist Raymond Pettibon, who created the illustrations of sequined sweatshirts and jackets.

The accessories, fanny packs worn as bandoliers and bulletproof vests that become backpacks promise to become a commercial success.

Despite the resources of the house archive, it shaped a modern collection, without trying to pretend or exaggerate the cuts that could enter the closet of the most classic if they assume that the future is already here.

To this ambition to ally tradition and modernity, the designs of Cerruti 1881 , an Italian menswear icon, renewed the collection with a series of extra large anoraks without leaving the colors of the wardrobe background: blue, black, gray and raw.

On the catwalk, neoprene sweaters and knit over ankle trousers in a more relaxed style, with long tricot cardigans along with XL-size bags and waterproof backpacks.

The third-to-last day of the Fashion Week in Paris also featured a batucada inside the American cathedral (unheard of scenes that can only be seen in the capital during the parades). It was the staging by which the Japanese brand Maison Mihara Yasuhiro opted for a line rich in scraps.

What looks like a sports jacket ahead becomes an English checkered raincoat from behind; the Andean style knit cardigan is combined with shirt, suit and sports pants, and the sweatshirts have a sleeve as a tie.

"Mixtures and combinations are part of my style, I like to mix it with cowboy, to be inspired by the 'American vintage', something that the Japanese are very attracted to ," Yasuhiro told Efe behind the scenes.

Yasuhiro was also inspired by the betting culture of his country to conceive fashion as a game, for which he recovered the motives of the casino on shirts, scarves and even heeled booties. EFE