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Paris begins men's fashion week

The fashion will live from this Tuesday a particularly hectic week in Paris with the presentation of the first collection for men of Celine, by the hand of the controversial designer Hedi Slimane , and with the premiere of Loewe on the male catwalk.

Celine's will be the last Fashion Week show on Sunday night, and yet the focus is on what will be the first men's fashion collection of the Parisian firm founded in 1945 by Céline Vipiana.

The house recovered the brio of yesteryear and became a benchmark between 2008 and 2018 thanks to the creations of the British Phoebe Philo, but the ambition to conquer the younger generation convinced the group to which it belongs, LVMH, to attract the earthquake Slimane, former designer of Dior Homme and Yves Saint Laurent.

The first French fashion show at Céline - the women's show last September - ended with a cascade of criticisms that accused him of having destroyed the spirit of the brand and even proposed a sexist collection.

In view of the first men's outfits that he presented in September, the autumn-winter 2019/20 silhouette will also be governed by the Slimane canons: tight pants, slim, jackets with marked shoulders. That is to say, the rock aesthetic that gave him fame in Dior Homme twenty years ago.

Saturday morning will be the turn of the Spanish firm Loewe, whose designer, Northern Ireland Jonathan Anderson, has managed to renew since his arrival in 2013.

Its parades welcome more and more celebrities and industry leaders: symbol of the international evolution of the Spanish house.

Until now, Loewe only presented the women's collections on the catwalk , in the corridors of Unesco's headquarters, between works of art by Joan Miró and creations by other artists, while the men's line was shown behind closed doors and with appointment at the brand's office in Paris.

Anderson now seems willing to give a new varnish to his creation and give the male side the same importance as the female.

The firm has had to advance a couple of hours the parade before the risk of a new manifestation of the "yellow vests" , which in recent months have managed to block shops, transport and institutions on Saturdays of protests.

For the same reason Dior Homme will not parade on Saturday but on Friday afternoon, while other designers, such as Thom Browne, Sacai and Andrea Crews have preferred to advance or delay the presentations a couple of hours.

In addition, the Parisian catwalk is loaded this season of influential creators who have preferred to move to the fashion capital of their longs.

Raf Simons returns after several seasons in New York and having left the creative direction of Calvin Klein; Jil Sander arrives from Milan and JW Anderson, the own brand of Jonathan Anderson , changes London for Paris.

The promise of French fashion, Simon Porte Jacquemus, will present its second men's collection on Sunday after a first parade in a paradisiacal cove in Marseille (southeast) last July.

Its roots and its Mediterranean aesthetic seem to have found its niche and, on the verge of turning 28, the young man can boast of being one of the favorite creators of the designer Karl Lagerfeld .

Another of the icons of the moment, the American Virgil Abloh, will introduce his second collection for Louis Vuitton, in this case a tribute to the king of pop, Michael Jackson.

In Berluti, the Belgian Kris Van Assche, will show his first creations for the Italian firm after leaving Dior Homme after eleven years at his address.

The calendar will complete the brands such as Issey Miyake, Acne Studios, Cerruti 1881, Dunhill London and the exclusive presentations of Givenchy and Rochas, which will complete the silhouettes of the trends that will take place next fall.

The men's parades end on Sunday but on Monday the catwalk connects with the presentations of Haute Couture and High Jewelery , until next Thursday 24. EFE

Publicado: 15 01 2019
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