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Maria Grazia Chiuri has chosen for this collection of Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2019 . The visual sequence of the pieces that compose it is like an explosion of the memory and the imaginary that inhabit the circus and its relation with costumes, fashion and art, up to the evocation of the works that Cindy Sherman dedicates to clowns.
This collection is formed by an overlay of images: the tattooed skin of the woman, which reminds of the Victorian circus and its fair phenomena, becomes a combination of wonderful motifs that shape the body and tell a story to wear under the dresses . The powdery colors that are presented and mixed in an infinite palette, like those of the curtain that Pablo Picasso painted for the Parade ballet, also symbolize that wear, that fine dust that covers the costumes of the artists. The embroidered skirts or inlaid with opaque sequins shorten to become tutus that also evoke the circus codes, with their acrobats, their tamers and their amazons.
Maria Grazia Chiuri resorts to this great diversity of images to create her own Parade , which includes wide, very light trousers and adjusted to the height of the ankle, which can lead to sumptuous combinations. The shorts are combined with transparent white shirts enhanced with necks or ribbons that seem worn out by time. We also find leather corsets, sailor blouses and even black jackets inspired by those of the tamers. The costume with geometric motifs of the white clown, sober or luxurious, has been reinterpreted in its materials, embroidery and proportions.
The rhythm of the parade is marked by the performance of the female circus company Mimbre that, in a constant search for the poetics of the unexpected, highlights the trust and bond that are created between the bodies of the acrobats.
The circus is presented as a place of inclusion where the clown, in its androgynous and asexual dimension, becomes the expression of possible equality. His look reflects modernity; what counts is no longer beauty, origin, sex, or age, but technique and audacity.
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